Saturday, December 10, 2016

Trekking from Kalaw to the touristy lake of Inle

Kalaw, like probably all the towns in Burma, has its multiple pagodas but there they were actually quite nicely lit up in the dark evening. In Kengtung (and many other places later on) they put the tackiest blinking neon bulbs or Christmas decoration style lights all around the temples, Buddha statues and buildings. It was very strange.

Kalaw also had a festival, I think the same one we attended the day before in Kengtung. Only this time it was on a completely dark football stadium with horribly drunken local teenage boys whom were shooting fireworks dangerously all around. It was not a nice place to be and so we excused ourselves pretty quickly and went home to prepare for our trek!

We must be super lucky. Our Nepali group was incredible but this time was no different: we were happy to share our trek with a great couple Heiko and Machteld from the Netherlands, Christian from Germany, Cherry from Hong Kong and Yun from Korea. And we were also positively surprised to learn that our guides were two young women from Kalaw and a nearby village. Cool! We had only our day packs with us and the rest of our stuff the trekking company delivered to our hostels in Inle. 

Our trekking day started after a short ride to the countryside amongst the fields of rice, chili, ginger and sesame flower. We saw the harvesting, tried some dried chillis and admired the landscape and the bamboo forests. The sun was intense and I was a bit scared to get too much of it but the day was quite a bit shorter than we’d expected. We stopped after some 4 h of walking for a fantastic lunch at a small village and continued our slow and relaxed hike for another few. I think we walked only 15 km or so and it was very very flat. Not Nepalese flat but more like Finnish flat.

Starting the journey

Sesame fields


Other fields

Chile fields


Spidey!




Spiderwoman! Also I dared, as an ex-arachnophobic I was a bit proud

Lunch


We arrived to a village which was, unfortunately, PACKED with tourists. This was not Kengtung anymore but definitely the very beaten path. Our group's homestay was a bit further out the village, so the location was actually pretty nice and peaceful. We took a stroll around the place, visited a monastery and then ate another fab meal prepared by our guides. We slept adorably all in the same room, next to each other on small mattresses on the floor. The night was cold (and dark and full of terrors!) and in the morning the whole village was covered in mist. 

Monastery

READ THIS BEFORE GOING TO BURMA

Little monk

Saving a kite

Kite runner

A richer part of the village




Hardworking ladies



Morning mist



Arachnophobia stuff

More arachnophobia stuff

Paying the toll fees


A huge bodhi tree

Which Chris of course needed to climb

More of that lunch

Finally at the lake




Heavy load



Floating gardens



Fisherman


Kitty at NK
In the evening we met up with our group at the night market and shared an amazing meal of all the weird local dishes: stuff I would never order myself but now got to try, great! We also planned the next day. We wanted to hire a boat together with our group and tour around some of the Inle lake’s sights. We heard it can be quite awful: the boatmen take you to some shops in the hopes of commission and there are “fishermen” aka actors who pose as fishermen for money so tourists can take cool pics. Also the long neck tribal ladies have their own “stand” somewhere in the lake which is hilarious because the tribe apparently has actually nothing to do with the lake, but live three hours away somewhere else. And then of course the endless souvenir shops and camera fees for temples and tourists with their little beach outwear in the temples and omg. I was a bit horrified already but we thought that since we don’t have high expectations we can rather just have a good laugh.


Nyaung Shwe



Evening walk

And more of them temples coming

So the next day, after a nice morning hanging sesh, we met next to the pier where we found American-French Jacqueline who had lost her group. Since we were already 7 people sharing one boat, we weren’t sure if we could take her in as well. But the boatman said nothing and so suddenly we were 8 sharing the already reasonable cost of a longboat (~18 euros/ boat). Good!
Hang on




Our first stop was the “Jumping cats monastery” where the monks had taught cats to jump through hoops and perform other tricks. Awesome! I was sad to learn that the cats weren’t doing any tricks anymore. Damn. The monastery itself was alright though and it had multiple felines but they looked rather sick. No wonder, I think they were fed mostly rice.

Posing "fisherman"

Owner of the world








Jump cat jump!!!



There were cats. But not jumping.

WHATTA HELL IS THIS? Cheez, Louis Vuitton should be ashamed.



Sick little kitty



Cool cats

Next up were the floating gardens and the boat man's sad attempt to take us to a silversmith’s workshop (we kindly refused) before heading to a big pagoda on the lake. It was pretty but packed with tourists and little shops. Also they wanted the tourists to pay a camera fee which was just so silly that we refused. After visiting this tourist trap we enjoyed another lunch of “sharing everything on the menu” with our delightful group and then continued to Indein temple ruins. Yet another camera fee requiring tourist hell with the longest souvenir stall pathway that was neatly blocking the view to the ruins. We walked all the way up to the temples, rebelled by taking pics anyhow (how bad are we, ha?) and hurried back so Christian could catch his bus. Luckily we saw the nice sunrise on the way and despite all the touristyness of the trip I think we all had a blast.

Pagoda with a horribly difficult name


Lady monk
Aaand lunch


Happy touristas


Sunset



We shared one last meal together with the rest and the next day most continued their journeys onward. Chris and I still had the whole next day in town during which 1) I had a massive cramp on my shoulder from hang boarding 2) We had a great Burmese massage of 6000 kyat/ hour (~4 e) which unfortunately still didn’t help my neck 3) saw Cherry and went for a walk 4) picked up take away dinner from our favorite night market restaurant and 5) left the town by traveling in a freezing cold "VIP" night bus that roamed the bumpy roads in pitch black darkness at full speed.

Drinks after dinner

Burmese traffic lights

Central market and massive avocadoes





No comments: