Temples of Bagan and bouldering in Yangon

It was 3.00 in the morning when the bus driver announced that we are in Bagan. What?! We were supposed to be there around 6 or 7.00. The whole town of Nyaung U was locked down and we wondered what to do. Gladly we had reserved a hostel for the next day and the lovely ladies at SNS guesthouse let us in, offered us their sleeping areas (sofas and chairs) and apologized for not having any available rooms (come on, of course not, we hadn’t booked one for this night, eh!).

But we didn’t really feel like sleeping in the lobby so we opted for an alternative plan: we could walk through the dark and nicely cool city to the temples of old Bagan to watch the sunrise just in time! The hostel ladies were horrified by the idea (“But it’s so far?! It’s dark! You sleep now!”) but let us go after a few “it’s ok, we know, we know”s. Chris had the map on the phone, I had a few recommendations for good sunrise temples in mind and so we started off. On the way we met a few dogs, many bats, some little ancient temple ruins and one perplexed, still half sleeping man who offered us an e-bike to rent. No thanks, we’d be perfectly on time by walking.

Night time temples are impressive

Especially the big ones

Soon we were overtaken by sunrise inspired tourists on e-bikes and minivans. We saw that one of the bigger temples (suggested) was already packed full and so we continued a bit further. Guni North was closed and we couldn’t climb up for a good view so we took Guni South. We jammed our way up to the viewpoint through a steep and narrow staircase and found a viewing platform to share with about ten other tourists.

We found us a temple

Sun was about to rise

Other touristas

We saw the bigger temples spread around the vast valley in the distance and the sun was rising nicely behind a small set of mountains. Little mist was setting the scene and the only thing ruining the atmosphere was this loud Indian style music played somewhere not too far (or far enough). Never mind I thought while taking pics and breathing in the fresh morning air. The sunrise was beautiful as were the hot air balloons that rose from northeast and soon took over the sky. It must be a nice sight from up there too.

Bare with me the many pics

Shadow tourist

Sunrise tourist selfie

Afterwards we checked out another temple, had some leftovers we took from Nyaung Shwe as a breakfast, drank coffee and took a taxi back to the hostel. We soon got our room, napped and enjoyed a second breakfast before hiring an e-bike and heading back for sunset at the temples. This time we were out of luck. After checking out multiple temples we left to search one in particular but we couldn’t find this recommended solitary temple. We had to share a popular one with a herd of other tourists. Sunrise had definitely more atmosphere.

E-biker Jones and the raiders of the lost sunset temple

We do not approve of this kind of tourism

Sure.

Our e-bike (more like scooter since no pedaling was involved) gave up on the way home. The battery couldn’t quite take two peeps on one bike but fortunately after a phone call and a short wait we got a new bike and made it home.

During and after dinner Chris was feeling funny but he soon realized there was gonna be no fun involved. He spent the whole night and most of the morning trapped in the bathroom while his body was trying to rid some poisons plus everything else he had inside. I found him some electrolytes and imodium while worrying about our night bus to Yangon which would have no toilet. Late check out wasn’t possible due to the hotel being fully booked and so Chris occupied the sofa in the lounge. I went for a few walks, shopped stuff for the way and didn’t dare to eat much in case I’d share Chris’s faith. Our bus wasn’t a VIP one this time - it was still freezing but otherwise quite comfy. Luckily the medicaments worked fast and by evening Chris was feeling better already.

We made it to Yangon in a reasonable hour this time and had a good bargain with the taxi drivers that were preying on us weary travelers. Driver: “Ooh your hotel very far, 12 000 kyat” Me: “What? We paid 14 000 for a ten hour ride. I pay you 5 000”. Driver: “6 000”. Me: “Okay”. Lonely planet said 7 000 so we were happy.

Our place, Wai Wai’s boutique hotel, was quite a bit out of the downtown area but it was beautiful and peaceful as well as reasonably priced. Especially since we were offered a nice breakfast and a ready room well before the official check in! Nice. 

Yangon food delivery system: basket and a string

Chris having a chat with a friendly local

We had a walk around our neighborhoods and at a nearby lake, ate a simple lunch before finding our way to Sanchaung township and to Ben’s place. We didn’t know Ben per se but Ben had a climbing wall. And he was kind enough to invite us to use it for some training.

What a climbing wall it was! Located on the 8th floor penthouse’s roof top was a small but decent training wall with some established problems and mattress below. Ben, his girlfriend and their room mate were having some guests over (other than us :)) and were BBQing while we climbed the existing problems with Chris. Ben joined too and we started setting new problems. I’ve never set one in my life but now I did and I can proudly say it wasn’t half bad. Nor the easiest, I think it took Chris maybe three tries ;) (I hope the video works, even if it's a bit distorted...)

Perhaps the coolest training setting so far

Sunset BBQ

At 18.30 we rushed out to meet Ray who came to pick us up. Ray, a local Yangonese and a recently graduated doctor, was one part of our expedition in Nepal! More accurately, he was part of team Diamox which went to Island peak after our combined Mera journey and Ray even continued to Everest base camp. He had also gotten some degree of a frostbite and was transported back to Lukla from EBC with a helicopter. He showed us his blackened toes and indeed they looked quite bad. We were happy to see him again and hear about his adventures. We also felt lucky because this young gentleman showed us around the city and invited us to an amazing dinner of seafood local style. Wow. Thanks again Ray!

Ray, Chris and dinner

Excellent seafood

And some pretty dandy dessert

Shwedagon in its evening glory

Next day we had a full program before heading to the airport. We went into the impressive Shwedagon pagoda which is actually (partly) made of gold and pricey jewels. It is massive and, unlike we expected, not full of foreigners with their cameras but locals praying and visiting the temple. Well of course us tourists too but not in masses like at lake Inle. Afterwards we walked around the downtown area, searched for a post office and later took a taxi home and to the airport. We had of course not written the cards yet so they were sent in a bit of an hurry. Sorry guys :D

Shwedagon pagoda

Golden stuff

We had a marathon ahead of us: a flight marathon that is. Our first flight was from Yangon to Don mueng (Bangkok) at 17.35-19.35 and then changing the airport to BKK (with a shuttle). Then we’d be flying to Manila at ~00.35-4.30 and continuing at 10.20-12.00 to Surigao. Or so we thought...