We wandered into the small village on the Hampi Island side that had been created next to some beautiful green rice paddies, by a red dusty dirt road. It was filled with Israeli hippies and other spiritual gangsters, restaurants, guesthouses and souvenir stores that sold everything a proper little hippie would need - from rasta decorations to henna tattoos to baggy pants with hypnotic colors. The air was warm and dirty and the sickly-sweet smell of weed was lingering everywhere. People seemed pretty happy and why wouldn’t they be? Life here was easy and cheap. This was like a lightweight version of India, a tourist oasis in the middle of the real deal and an easy introduction for further explorations. Don’t worry, be Hampi!
Hampi, located in Karnataka in South India is a tiny village with some big importance to a few different kinds of tourists. The UNESCO labelled temple ruins bring in visitors of all sorts, the boulders lure in the enthusiastic rock climbers and the village and its “shanti shanti” tourist bubble invites the rest, the ones who just want to relax, chilax and enjoy life as it is. We obviously came for the climbs but maybe we could find some inspiration from the spiritual atmosphere and even muster the energy to check out some temples?
The start wasn’t too relaxing. We hopped out of the Hospet-Hampi bus and immediately fell victim to the frustration of a local rickshaw driver.
Driver: “Rickshaw to the ferry, sir, mam?”
We, smiling: “No thanks, we gladly walk, it’s only like 500 m anyway!”
Driver: “YOU BEGGAR PEOPLE, why you come here, you give me no business, you cheap beggar people just want to walk and no business for me!!!??!!”
--- Woah man, shanti shanti, hey!
The next obstacle was the river and the ridiculous ferry system to cross it. There’s one family that takes tourists across from Hampi side to the island and another family that takes them back. Which means the ferries drive every other crossing empty. Pretty silly, eh? Also, you always have to wait until there are enough passengers, the ferry does not go unless fully loaded. Depending on the time of the day, it might take quite a bit of time. Well, we soon figured out that the water level was so low that one can just wade through the (nasty) water. And so the rest of our stay we just walked across a bit further along the river instead of supporting this silly ferry arrangement.
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| River between Hampi and Hampi island |
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| Shortcut through ricepaddies |
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| Goan Corner - the place to be! |
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| View to the rocks from the Goan Corner |
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| Sunset at the rocks |
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| And more sunset |
A haven for climbers and travellers alike
The Goan Corner was the place to go. This every climber's sacred haven offered all kinds of rooms and simple accommodation, crash pads for rent, movie nights, yoga, amazing food and early brekkie for those hitting the boulders at sunrise...if only there was an espresso machine and a proper working internet, one would never have to leave ;) The place was just really, really nice. Sharmila, the owner was always around in good spirits, joking, telling stories and making sure everyone had what they needed. The staff was incredibly friendly and of course the best part were the other tourists, the climbers who’d quickly transform from acquaintances into friends. One of the first ones we met was Elias, from Helsinki and the same climbing gyms we go to! Finns were actually not a rarity there, we met plenty more in the upcoming days.
The Hampi island boulders were right there, visible from the guesthouse. We looked at the topo and soon realised that only the sectors on Hampi island would offer us more than enough to work on for the upcoming days. Many stay here for weeks and months, we only had 13 days. Elias, who was here for the second time and for a month already, knew the place well and was a great guide and company to go bouldering with. Silas, a super nice guy from Denmark was also part of the inventory and after a few days the group grew by two other Finns, Antti and Damon, as well as Seamus the wee Irish man, Steven our favorite American of all times and a fantastic guy called Max from Australia. We also climbed with the nicest couples: Xaviour and Anna from India and Sweden as well as Lydia and Daniel from Switzerland...Among many other fantastic personalities.
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| Chris and the massive dog from Goan Corner |
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| Elias |
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| And another doggy |
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| Goan Corner had many types of guests. This family had the priorities straight. Why talk when everyone can stare at their own smart device? |
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| Silas and Steven |
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| Off to the rocks! |
Finally some climbing!
We had missed climbing so much and couldn't wait to get our hands on the rock! In the first evening, immediately when the temps would go a bit lower, we headed out to the closest boulders on Rishimuk plateau. There was a lot of easy stuff to warm up with and remind us again what the whole climbing business was about. We had had a few climbs in HK but before that it had been long since a proper session.
Climbing felt stiff and strange. The rock, we soon noticed, was unforgivingly hard. This didn’t come as a surprise: Hampi was known for its sharp, crystal crimps and nonexisting footholds. Our baby skin was suffering since the first touch. But hot damn, was I happy!! We were climbing! Finally! I had missed it a lot more than I had first realised. In all its awkwardness it was still better than anything else.
The grades, we heard, could be quite misleading so we tried not to focus on them too much. Also, I knew that it would take a while to get back to the same level as before the trip and to get the proper skin back so we could pull hard again - as well as to warm up the muscle memory to commit to all the heel hooks, lock-offs and other crucial moves. So on the first evening we climbed some easy sixes, one particularly cool one: a classic called Psychobloc (6B+). It took me a few tries and a properly polished beta before sending it. After the session, our fingertips were screaming but the mind was happy.
During the 13 days we didn’t take too many rest days and even when we weren’t climbing we would go to visit the yet uncharted boulders. First few days went in different stages of pain but soon the skin got tougher and my head was back in the game! Indeed one of the troubling things for me in the first days were the intimidating high problems. It felt to me that many of the lines were highballs and the moves were pretty long too. If I understood correctly the first ascends were mostly made by a tall and daring guy. One of these was a classic called Cosmic Crimp, a line about 8 meters tall that was first climbed without any safety whatsoever. No crashpads, nada. Back home, this would already be a sport route ;)
One evening there were particularly many climbers challenging their heads on these cosmic crimpers which also meant that there were quite some pads too. We watched a few more or less shaky top outs and then Chris had his chance to go. Unfortunately it was already so dark that even with all the head torches it was hard to see anything. And when we heard that the down climb would be even worse, we decided it was good to give it a try another day.
Most evenings we would head back home when it got too dark to climb. Perhaps we would still give a few goes with the aid of head torches but by the time it was dark we would also be hungry. The restaurant in Goan Corner provided us with the tastiest veggie dishes, things from the tandoori oven, masala chai and sometimes we’d even treat ourselves with some of the nicest cakes for dessert. We were always surrounded by the kindest people, climbers who had accompanied us on the rocks that day or others who had had a rest or had just arrived. Every evening had the same nice elements but it never got boring. I enjoyed every moment.
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| Rocks |
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| Rocks everywhere |
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| And frogs...the awkward beginning |
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| Chris on Cosmic arete |
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| Chris on Double tap (7B) |
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| Chris on something else :D |
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| Heading out with Daniel and Lydia |
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Cosmic Crimps (6B) highball
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| Another sunset |
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| Amazingly cool Piano Crimps (6A?) |
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| Down climb required some jumping around |
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| A good warm up problem |
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| Steven took some nice photos of me failing on this little rock |
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| I did try though |
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| Chris "Spiderman" Gysin did not fail |
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| This one (as well as the three before) are from Steven :) |
Our favorite problems
One of the areas that left us with particularly happy and warm feelings was the Little Cave and its excellent routes. We spend quite some sessions there. Little cave had excellent warm up problems, some lines that stayed in the shade for a long time and the legendary Sandwich roof that had a few problems with differing grades but all with nice moves. A particularly funky 7A called Murciélago, which means bat in Spanish, caught my eye on the first time at the Little cave. It was located inside three massive boulders, like in a cave and it had beautiful holds, delicate moves and a peculiar top out through a tiny opening at the top. Not touching the rocks on the sides was the crux of the problem. On the first session I managed to do the sit start but the slightly long move in the middle took a bit of projecting. It remained as a project until the last morning in Hampi, when I went directly to it after a good warm up and sent it on the first go! Perfect!
On the Sandwich roof Chris sent more or less everything except some traverses we didn’t even try. Sebi’s roof 7A+ was exceptionally pretty. And next to it was the sandwich roof’s name problem, a classic as well, with the grade of 6B. What a cool line! The beginning was easy but pretty, there was a fantastic dyno (for the shorter of us) in the middle and then a very commitment demanding top out. This was definitely one of my favorites.
Another one, a 6B or a 6B+ and a classic too, was Barry’s double arete. It was a fantastic problem in many ways: it climbed beautifully, it wasn't sharp at all and it stayed in the shade long in the morning. I had a real fight to get to the top of this one: I slipped on the nonexistent footholds while hanging on the massive top ledge which happened to be a pretty bad sloper. With some random luck I managed to get a bit of friction under the soles of my feet and got myself on top, panting like it was a sports event of the year. Insanity :D
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| Murciélago and the nifty top out |
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| A cool rock with a nice 7Aish problem |
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| Lydia on the Barry's double arete! |
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| Max barndooring on Barry's |
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| Chris sending the classic |
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| Sandwich roof (6B) had a cool dyno! Pic by Damon Beckford |
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This one was super pretty, Hollow rail (6B) Pic by Damon Beckford
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Expanding the climbing horizons
One morning we took an early start and headed out a bit further, to Settuwa plateu and its impressive 90 degree arete! We were a huge group of people and a tiny stray puppy dog. Shannon, we named her. 90 degree arete was nothing short of the expectations I had. Hard, no feet and high. The best of us only got half way up and when the sun started shining full on, the game was lost. Those tiny crimpers turned into nothing with even the littlest amount of sweat.
We continued up the hill, climbed some other easy things and then got on the unnerving Perfect Crack. This wasn’t a hard problem but it was tall, had a bad landing and it was...well...a crack. It included about all the things I suck at. I was about to take the easy way out: I was supposed to have a rest day. But after a while of watching the guys struggle and still try their best in good spirits, I thought I have to at least try. The boys weren't giving up just because they were a bit agitated by the tall problem so why should I? I would never learn anything and get over my silly fears if I didn't try.
Chris of course flashed the problem. Ryan was so close but struggled at the top out and then Antti soon climbed it very smoothly. On my first go I got to the crux without effort but slipped stupidly with the feet. But by then I knew that I can easily top the problem out and so I did on the next go. Still, this 6A (?) might have given me more a feeling of success than any of the 7A’s in Hampi :D I think I learned something ;)
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| 90 Degree arete, how BEAUTIFUL?! |
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| But tricky |
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| Seamus trying with his beta |
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| Crimpy things |
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| Fail... |
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| Steven and the cute little Shannon |
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| Sleeping or dead...? |
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| More Settuwa |
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| And then the Perfect Crack |
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| Chris flashing. Pic by Damon Beckford. |
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| Silas doing well |
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| Seamus taking a break |
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| Antti's turn to send the beast |
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| Steven taking the little Shannon back to town |
It's not just the pretty lines, but the company too
Chris climbed so well, it seemed like the break had had no effect on him whatsoever. It was a delight to watch. One extraordinarily cool climb was a 6C called The Shield that he did in no time. I could hardly manage the first move ;) Another person that was a joy to watch was Salva, a Spanish man in his fifties. He is without a doubt one of the strongest climbers I have seen. Travelling with his wife Marga (not a climber) and only a tiny crash pad, he joined us on a few climbs and he had a particularly good effect on Chris. I think they motivated each other to try just a wee bit harder.
Also, climbing with Daniel and Lydia was great. Both of them climbed very nicely and were fun to be around. Daniel and Chris climbed pretty much the same grade and Lydia and I found perfect climbing company in each other. Elias and Silas, both veteran Hampi climbers showed us around the best problems and were delightful climbing partners too. The climbing itself was fantastic but even better was the company. As it often happens.
On a few evenings we gathered our group and went to check out the sunset. One evening we walked all the way to the hill where the Hanuman temple, the birthplace of the monkey god, lies. It took some 600 steps to get to the top but indeed the sunset looked pretty fine from all the way up there. We were lucky as well, it wasn’t cloudy, like most evenings.
The guys, our team, was about to leave to Badami for some silly rope climbing stuff (I know, strange right, when you have all these beautiful boulders around?!) just one day before we would start heading home. Our last evening climbing with them was legendary. Seamus had brought his guitar and amazing singing skills and Max his lightweight-travel-friendly trombone! Yes, it’s a thing, apparently :D And so, while our group of ten(ish) people were marching to the rocks with our crashpads, Max would walk alongside and play his tunes. It was somehow so surreal.
Another surreal but perhaps one of the most beautiful moments was later that evening, when the sun had set and we were all sitting by the Barry’s double arete. It was already very dark but someone was still climbing with a head torch, Seamus was singing and playing the guitar, Steven sang too and Max was jamming with the trombone. I was just sitting there, listening and watching and thinking how happy I was.
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| Tired little puppy |
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| Chris on Sebi's roof (7A+) and Salva spotting |
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| Greenest grass |
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| Hiking up to Hanuman temple |
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| There it is!!! |
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| Right. Here. |
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| A few panoramas from the top |
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| Yoga |
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| This picture makes me happy |
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| And this one makes me amused. Indian way of teaching climbing. |
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| Pose! |
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| First thing is to look good. Safety fourth. |
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| Damon warming up |
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| Chris and Salva on the TV-boulder |
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| Damon! |
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| Sunset seekers |
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| Silas on Double tap |
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| Antti levitating :D |
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| This one was quite an exception to the highball rule |
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| Silas has the same weird webbed toe as me!! How cool! |
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| Go Steven! |
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| And go Seamus! |
Videoclip of one of the nicest evenings ever
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| Our dear team! From the right: Steven, Chris, Antti, Seamus, Danish guy whose name I can't spell, Damon and Silas and myself. |
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